1.If you really want to do this then you will just do it, it’s not something you should have to force.
2.Listen to yourself, not the doubters. It’s difficult to go your own way when everyone else wants to hold you back because your desire is real and their true desire is to be intoxicated in a pub talking about their ‘desires’.
3.Be a risk manager not a risk taker.
4.Knowledge eliminates fear – learn about the spot, your equipment etc as much as possible.
5.Paddle before you tow! Honestly there are guys who have bought skis and are towing in who have never paddled anything over 8 foot and aren’t competent surfers; I’m not joking! This is completely irresponsible but also they will never surf monsters because they skipped the learning process. I know two English professionals who had never seen a 10’0” gun (big wave board) before yet they try to tow surf.
6.Buy good equipment. I made my own equipment at the beginning and paid the price!
7.Take safety precautions; you owe it to your loved ones to look after yourself!
8.Take it seriously, it’s not tiddlywinks. It is life-threatening going into the sea at anytime, let alone when it’s at its wildest, so do it wholeheartedly or not at all.
9.Watch videos; paddling into big waves is very different to small waves and there is a technique.
10.Surf with a competent big wave rider.
Photos:
Courtesy of Mickey Smith www.mickeysmith.co.uk, Aaron Pierce-www.liquid-storm.com
