King of the Atlas Mountains
Words: Barry Roberts
Photos: Tim Burton – www.timburtonphotography.com
Expedition leader and Commercial Director of Wilderness Medical Training Barry Roberts brings us on a trek up North Africa’s highest peak – which is now only a cheap flight away.
Every experience of a new destination begins with a first trip. Mine to Morocco was in 1992 with a group of French corporate executives. Beforehand, two of us went on a reccy involving a three-day walk in the M’Goun mountain range. The route took us through gorges and along a riverbed. We had a ridiculously large retinue of muleteers, guides and cooks to accompany us.
The client had thoughtfully also provided an inflatable kayak which we used to speed our traverse. Keen to establish how hospitable the locals were, we beached one afternoon and, as expected, were quickly swamped by local children. Speaking French, we politely asked for a drink. The kids ran off and, in time, an adult appeared with the best family silver tray, a pot of refreshing sweet green tea, glasses and stale biscuits. Not surprisingly, that first visit has led to 10 trips to Morocco, and counting.
Think of Morocco and images of deserts, camels and beaches spring to mind. But you might not think of Maroc as a mountainous country, let alone as being home to Mount Toubkal; at 4,167m it’s the highest peak in North Africa. A mere 63km from Marrakech, the peak is nestled in the Atlas Mountains, which stretch an astonishing 2,500km across Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia. Never mind Marrakech as a stag destination (notwithstanding the relative absence of alcohol!), it is close enough to Europe and becoming well enough served with cheap flights to make the Toubkal summit an achievable trekker’s long weekend goal.
When you land in Marrakech, Africa hits you. There’s something about the scents in the air (animal dung, diesel, sizzling street food), the bustle, barging and bureaucracy that is distinctly African. We say TIA – This Is Africa. Colourful, inefficient, thriving and exotic. You either love it or … won’t.
Immediately outside the airport, the housing boom has taken off with row upon row of new homes, mostly unoccupied and surrounded by infertile wasteland. But within a few miles beyond the ring road the rural nature of Morocco is stark. School children walk down the road, miles from any habitation. Camels lope across farm fields on the horizon. In good visibility, the summit snows of Toubkal shimmer in the evening light in rich contrast to the dust and cacti that stretch as far as the eye can see. Closer to Toubkal, as the road begins to climb and weave alongside shallow rivers and greenery, the rock turns an inviting deep ochre colour.
Imlil village at the road head is a small but busy place. Cafes, butchers and grocers line the streets. Mule trains clog the road. Souvenir shop owners plead for business. Don’t fob them off with “we’ll buy something on our way back”. They’ll remember you and will hold you to your promise. A few hours’ walk beyond Imlil, past the vast meandering dry riverbed is a river crossing at Sidi Shamarouch, a shrine and a place to break for a refreshing mint tea or cola, and to shop for trinkets. Look out for the amazing fossils for sale amongst the carved boxes, jewellery and tat. All currencies accepted. TIA. Money is money.
Beyond Sidi it’s head down time for the slow grind to the refuge. Later in the season, don’t miss the small plants, mountain flowers and lichen that are clues to the presence of water. Move out of the way of descending mules by stepping up hill. If you have a keen eye or binoculars, you can spot the refuges made of local stone that blend into the mountainside from a few kilometres away. You are nearly there, but this is only day one and there’s more fun to come!
When to go
Toubkal actually gets a pretty ferocious winter and enough snow to make winter mountaineering (with ice axes and crampons) and ski mountaineering (using skins to climb on skis with articulated bindings) a prospect. Slog up, whip off the skins attached to the ski base by a Post-it Note type of reusable glue, and slide down back to base. There are many ski routes documented in a French book on the subject, a legacy of Morocco’s colonial past. This colonial past is also where the refuge system comes from. Built by the Club Alpin Francais (CAF), they are scattered around the mountains. I have visited Toubkal in February to ski but the snow cover was disappointing. Better to wait until late March for spring skiing.
But back to trekking. Most hikers will want to visit Toubkal when the snow has largely melted and before it gets too hot. That leaves April-May and September-October as the best times to visit. Trekking outside these periods affords a more tranquil experience but be prepared for colder temperatures and snow. On my ski trip, a Spanish couple dressed in jeans and sweatshirts stumbled into the refuge at 3,200m, shattered, frozen and with a dog! Despite our advice this ill-equipped pair continued up the frozen scree and patchy hard snow the following day, without ice axes or proper footwear.
Even in spring and autumn, the diurnal temperature range is enormous and you will need warm clothes, hats and gloves. Sturdy trekking shoes as opposed to big clunky climbing boots will suffice if there’s no snow. Unless you’re camping, you should only need a medium sized rucksack (no more than 50 litres) to carry your kit. Donkeys are available for hire at the road head in the village of Imlil for those wishing to camp and take the kitchen sink. But why camp when there are those perfectly positioned, well-priced refuges that will serve a decent meal?!
The trekking route
The ascent profile is pretty steep on the route from Imlil and the first day’s trek is long – about eight hours if you rest and drink en route to the Nelter refuge at 3,207m (don’t believe Lonely Planet’s five-hour estimate). From here it’s nearly another 1000m to the top which can take another eight hours, or longer. It’s possible to continue the descent back to Imlil but this makes for a long day. Better to rest and rehydrate at the refuge and descend in the morning on fresh legs when it’s cool.
It’s entirely possible to suffer symptoms of acute mountain sickness (AMS) on summit day: lack of appetite, nausea and headache. Drink plenty and don’t over exert yourself; walk at a comfortable pace at which you can still chat. Turn back if the symptoms are severe.
Day one is a well trodden, low-angled path (in most places). On day two, the path rears up steeply from the hut and is unrelenting as it weaves through boulder fields and scree slopes that are tiresome and sometimes difficult to follow. Take care on the descent. One of my ski chums slipped on the scree and snapped her wrist walking back down on our aborted ski ascent.
It’s also possible to descend via an alternative, parallel valley which I’ve never seen other trekkers use but I prefer if I have a strong group. The valley ends just within sight of the refuges so route finding is easy. The path is good and easy to follow, except for the initial 200m from the summit which is a steep scramble only for the confident off-piste trekker. The track passes the debris of a crashed helicopter that is scattered for hundreds of metres. Naturally there are many other trekking routes and peaks in the area that are within reach of the refuges.
Where to stay
There’s a CAF refuge in Imlil plus the Nelter refuge at 3,207 already mentioned. Less well known on the trekking circuit but a favourite of more well-heeled travellers is the Kasbah du Toubkal, 10 minutes walk up the hill from Imlil. This restored hilltop house is poised on a knoll and yields stunning views in all directions. There are apartments and suites to hire and also three Berber salons, like dormitories, but with more colour and comfort, that sleep seven to 13 people.
I’ve stayed here many times when running Wilderness Medical Training’s mountain medicine expedition and with many corporate groups. The food is authentic and you can BYOB. The hammam and ice cold plunge pool provides an invigorating end to a dusty trekking day (its use is strictly segregated by sex of course).
Next to the Nelter refuge is the newish, privately owned larger Refuge Mouflon with much cleaner toilet facilities. Both refuges provide blankets so sleeping bags are unnecessary. (For more details on the refuges visit: www.caf-maroc.com, www.kasbahdutoubkal.com and www.refugetoubkal.com – Refuge Mouflon.)
Want to come?
Toubkal is an easy DIY trip. There are no permits required. You could negotiate a taxi to Imlil at the airport and just rock up and start walking. It is best however to pre-book accommodation on the mountain, especially if you have a large group (more than three). You certainly need to pre-book at the Kasbah du Toubkal which can also help organise mules and guides, but this can also be done on arrival. (For more details on the refuges visit: www.caf-maroc.com, www.kasbahdutoubkal.com and www.refugetoubkal.com – Refuge Mouflon.)
The Moroccan’s are entrepreneurial and hospitable. The mountain Berbers seem less inclined to overcharge but you should still bargain hard and agree all rates in advance. A 1:50,000 map is available (not locally) but it is actually very light on detail and not really necessary if you stick to the main trail during the non-winter months (Toubkal & Marrakech from www.orientazion.com or from Stanford’s in London).
If you want to let a professional firm do the organising KE Adventure Travel runs Toubkal treks and exploratory holidays. For details, visit: www.keadventure.com
Or you could join me for the Toubkal trek-only phase of my next mountain medicine expedition to Toubkal (27 September-1 October). For doctors, the full trip runs from 25 April. See www.wildernessmedicaltraining.co.uk for details or contact me at wmt@wildernessmedicaltraining.co.uk
Overall a good review. However would have to disagree with Barry’s presumption that most people will want to go Toubkal when the snow has largely melted. For sure going in the spring is a rewarding time when the valleys are green. Post summer in the autumn much less so.
However our experience as the primary “ex-pats” guiding company for many years for Toubkal is the opposite and as can be seen from the photos on our website, winter *is* an amazingly rewardng time of year to visit.
One other thing that Barry doesn’t mention (apart from our website!) is that the entire High Atlas are a moutain rescue free zone! There have been some heli-vacs from the terraces in front of the Toubkal refuges but that is it. Basically – “get yourself in – get yourself out”!. Which is where mountain medicine comes in…..