It may be just a tiny island off the coast of Africa but as Outsider’s mountain biking editor Evan Ryan discovers, Gran Canaria is a must visit destination for anyone with mountain biking on their mind.
I am loath to admit that I do occasionally take a look at magazines other than Outsider, but I do. And recently I was reading about 10 places where you must go biking before you die. Moab (tick), British Colombia (tick), trail centres in the UK (tick)…you get the idea.
I had ridden in several of the locations mentioned, scanning for one spot in particular, but to my surprise it wasn’t there. Gran Canaria – one of the most exciting and challenging places I have ever been on a bike.
This Spanish territory is a well-known destination for package holidays and there are numerous beaches and bars to cater for all tastes. So should you have a family in tow you could kill two birds with one stone.
If you are on the bike though, it is when you get a little bit away from the coast and into the volcanic mountains that the island transforms into something of a different dimension. Red rock and steep twisty hairpin roads are what wait in the heart of the island. White washed houses and shops are dotted throughout the hills. Tiny churches that belong in spaghetti westerns are also common up above the valleys. Stopping for a coffee with a view across the entire island is definitely worth the effort on the climbs!
The trails that crisscross the island are truly amazing, old tracks that would have been used to get around the island before the roads arrived. Some of these seem to cling impossibly to the side of mountains. These routes are all well worn and this makes then all the better for biking. Loose rock, sand, hard coarse volcanic formations and smooth glass-like rock are all in a day’s riding. Some of the trails seem to spiral into nothingness only to lead impossibly to a new valley or crest another isolated peak.
There are so many options as to how you tackle the trails it is nearly impossible to know where to start. You can bike straight from your accommodation climbing up from the coast into the hills. You can drive to one of the many picturesque little towns like San Bartolome and take in the trails in a loop and the cruise back in air-conditioned comfort. Even the driving is something of an adventure; on some of the roads you are nearly safer on the bike than in the car.
Head for the hills
With such a vast network of trails, it is possible to traverse the island from one side to the other off road. Last year we rode from Mas Palomas in the south of the island to Agate in the north-west with no more of a plan than a hotel booking in Agate and flipflops and swimming trunks brought with us.
The island abounds with possibility and every ride can be an adventure. Some tourist attractions like Roque Nublo (a huge free-standing rock) are accessible by walking trails that can easily be ridden on. The highest point on the island is also worth checking out; unlike the car drivers you won’t have to turn around and go back down the road you came up but can head off on a ridiculous descent off-road descent all the way back down to sea level.
Local knowledge or a guidebook and a sense of adventure are essential to make the most of Gran Canaria. Trails like ‘Lord of the Rings’, ‘Super G’, ‘Sand Man’, ‘Gordon’s Folley’ and ‘Pipe Dream’ are well known by the Irish riders that frequent this island. Alas these trails have different names with the locals! If you are on a first trip the best thing to do is get some guiding and even rent a bike as yours will take a thrashing.
Mas Palomas is a good place to base yourself as there are plenty of options along the coast and you can head for Mogan easily enough. Other good options are the areas of Fataga, Cruz Grande, Artenera and Tajeda. Google Maps will really show the potential of the island and some trails can be clearly seen. A bit of research and some local knowledge will get you a long way.
The facts
If you’re after a guiding or rental, local company Free Motion is a good place to start. They run MTB and Road weeks which include five days guided riding, rental of a Cannondale Rush 6 or other for six days, bike storage, tour profiles, Powerbar energy pack for the week, drinks bottle, bike wash facilities with mechanic support and seven nights half board at a three-star hotel (€549). They also offer a range of packages such as a 2008 Cannondale Rush 6 for €89.50 for five days and tours which focus on the central/eastern areas of the island. Most excursions have shuttle transport from Playa del Ingles to the trailheads and include food, water, mechanic support and local hotel transfer. For more details, contact: Free Motion, Avda. de Alfereces Provisionales s/n, Hotel Sandy Beach local 9, E-35100 Playa del Ingles, Gran Canaria (Spain); tel. (+34) 928-777479; e-mail: info@free-motion.net
A good time to go is between November and February when the weather here is pretty grim in Ireland and flights and accommodation are reasonable. Flights are usually midweek and Iberia or Aer Lingus will get you there. It’s best to book early online and include your ‘surfboard’ in the booking as bikes are still not on the sports equipment list.
I stayed in the Vista Oasis Bungalows (Cl Einstein 6, Maspalomas, Gran Canaria, Spain) and they were perfect. They offered enough facilities to make breakfast and a post-ride lunch but eating out in the evenings is really the only option. The bungalows sleep three comfortably and have a decent balcony for bikes and bike bags. If you have a family in tow, somewhere closer to the beach might be a better bet. Cheap and cheerful have usually been my criteria!
It’s worth nothing that bikes and bodies will take a bashing – it’s not a place for your carbon race bike. Rocks bounce around the trails and the ding of rock on bike frame is an all too familiar sound. New tyres will also just about last a week. Check out the Decathlon Super Store if you are stuck for bike bits when you’re out there, it’s like the Tesco of sports stores. If you have one, bring a full suss bike, if not you will be king of the climbs and will be able to boast after the descents.
