Adventure racing has taken me to remote, inhospitable parts of the world. So the chance to compete in an event in the lush tropical sun-kissed Caribbean Guadeloupe islands with regular race team mate Vanessa Lawrenson was one that I couldn’t say no to.
Last November, we competed against 29 other teams from 20 countries in the Isles Guadeloupe Adventure Race (IGWA). This was a staged race over five days that introduced us to the adventures, history and tastes of this archipelago of islands.
When we weren’t battling our way through sugar plantations, kayaking through mangrove swamp or climbing up to Guadeloupe’s active volcano, we sampled the local Ti-Punch cocktail, made with Guadeloupe’s own Vieux Rum, and soaked up the sound of the islands’ La Biguine music.
The Isles Guadeloupe consist mainly of Grand Terre, Basse Terre, Marie Galant, Les Saintes and Les Desirades. Grand and Basse Terre are the main islands, prettily forming the shape of a butterfly. Named The Island of Beautiful Waters by its native Carib Indians, Guadeloupe is surrounded by the Caribbean sea and Atlantic Ocean. It was discovered by Christopher Columbus in 1493, colonised by the French in 1635 and coveted by the English and Spanish. It became a French Overseas Region in 1974.
Inevitably, the flavour of Guadeloupe is French. French is the official language and the island’s currency is the Euro. But the Creole patois spoken by many islanders and the style of architecture also seem to lend laid-back Guadeloupe a New Orleans like feel. The food is a mix of European, African, Creole and Indian, a culinary legacy of the Indians who were brought to work on the island’s plantations in the 19th century.
However, adventure, rather than food, was on our minds and menus as we prepared to run through jungle, across mountains and along coastal routes, swim, paddle, mountain bike and discover Guadeloupe over five days. Situated in the Lesser Antilles, close to the Eastern Caribbean islands of Montserrat, the islands’ tropical climate tempered by the prevailing trade winds and lush scenery offered a welcoming backdrop for adventure, while the islands’ turquoise waters, white sandy beaches and cocktails helped our post-adventure relaxation process.
Once outside the island’s main population centres, the Caribbean pace of life is instantly obvious and the Creole hospitality greets you with open arms. With younger islanders exploring education and career opportunities on the French mainland, the older island population will remind you somewhat of the old way of life in the west of Ireland.
A basic level of French is enough to get by on when it comes to chatting with the locals but many still use Creole as their first language. A mix of local traditions, costumes, crafts and adventure make Guadeloupe more than the average sun-kissed Caribbean holiday island, while hiking along paths used by smugglers or enjoying an adventure on terrain that might have been a 17th century slave labour sugar plantation adds an intriguing historical twist.
The IGWA race was far from run of the mill, including activities (golf!) that might not be typical AR style but which introduced us to many sides of island life and can be enjoyed by adventure-seeking visitors.
Volcano trekking:
The highest peak in Guadeloupe is La Soufriere on Basse Terre, at 1467m above sea level. What makes the trek to the peak of this still-active volcano unique is the fact that you pass through several different ecosystems on the climb. While many trekkers begin the route at the coast, we started at an elevation of about 900m a few kms outside of the local market town of St Claude. Our route took in two other peaks of La Citerne and L’Echelle and the accumulated climb was close to 1000m via well-marked trails that were steep and slippery in places. We passed through tropical rainforest, then mountain savannah, before emerging onto an unexpected lunar-like landscape devoid of any vegetation. Locally, the volcano is fondly known as ‘The Old Lady’.
At the peak of La Soufriere, the pungent smell of sulphur hits the senses as gases emit from cracks in the crater. However, the views are more than worth the momentary sensory discomfort, with azure seas as far as the eyes can see. While the beaches on Grand Terre are white, it’s La Soufriere that gives western Basse Terre its black sandy beaches. Basse Terre is also home to 66 square miles of tropical forest and Guadeloupe’s national park, and is the best place for hiking.
During the IGWA, a team of fast Russian racers managed the route round La Soufriere in less than 2 ½ hours so a full day’s trekking would be assured for most hikers. Their reward is to bathe in a thermal pool at the end of the trek, to an entertaining background crescendo of jungle creatures.
Surfing:
For those of us who have endured Ireland’s winter waves, Guadeloupe offers a pleasant all-year-round surfing paradise. With average daytime temperatures between 20 and 30 degrees, there’s no need for wetsuits and there are at least 35 recognised surfing spots dotted around the islands. While it may not match Hawaii’s giant wave potential or the exhilaration of Ireland’s Aileens, what it does offer is guaranteed waves in un-crowded locations, beautiful beaches and cocktails at sunset.
While you can surf all year round, the main season is between October and May, with waves breaking on coral, lava or rock reefs. Trade winds are more intense in spring/summer, which means bigger waves on the islands’ Atlantic coast. Big thrill seekers could opt to surf in September and October when the hurricane season guarantees exceptional swell (usually before or after a hurricane). To sample some of Guadeloupe’s best surfing, head for the beaches at Saint Anne or Saint Francois on south Grand-Terre.
Windsurfing:
One stage of the IGWA race took us windsurfing on a triangular course near the town of St Francois on Grand Terre. While temperatures in the Guad islands seldom dip below 30 degrees, there are generally pleasant breezes to accompany the sunshine-filled days. This makes Guadeloupe an ideal windsurfing location. Beginners can avail of reasonably-priced equipment hire and tuition at one of the island’s established schools. With sea temperatures ranging between 25 and 28 degrees and beautiful surroundings, the only thing you need to worry about is the applying a suitable waterproof sun lotion at the start of the day.
Snorkelling.
One of the most unusual stages of the race was snorkelling, where teams were given 40 minutes to identify up to fifteen different kinds of fish and animal life in the clear waters off the Plage des Raisons Clair on Grand Terre. While the islands have several suitable PADI dive centres for diving enthusiasts, there’s plenty to be seen and enjoyed just by investing in a snorkel and mask and walking in off the from the beach at your hotel. An abundance of coral in 3 to 10 metre deep areas just off Guadeloupe’s sandy beaches offers a more relaxed means of exploring sea life if you’re not keen to scuba dive. It’s hassle-free, inexpensive and you get to indulge in your favourite cocktail at the beach bar in between excursions. Also worth visiting are the beaches of Bouillante and Grand Anse on the west coast of Basse Terre while Guadeloupe is also home to a number of nudist beaches if that takes your fancy.
Canyoneering;
Basse Terre’s lush rivers, massive trees and tumultuous rivers make it the ideal spot for canyoneering, with at least eight guiding companies on this island. While the tropical climate dictates that rainfall and river flows will vary significantly, the nature of the steep rocky canyons set amongst the high tropical jungle should get the adrenalin pumping with a mix of abseiling, rock-climbing and jumping into natural pools. If there isn’t enough water to go canyoneering, console yourself with a visit to Guad’s famous Les Chutes de Carbet waterfalls instead.
Guadeloupe facts:
*Peak tourism season is February to April.
*Along with humid tropical rainforest, an active volcano and sub-tropical vegation, Guad is also home to mangrove swamps and banana plantations.
*The islands are a mix of laid-back fishing communities and larger, more modern towns.
*There are two seasons: a dry season between February and June and a wet season between July and January.
*Getting there: fly via Paris Orly with Air France, Air Caraibe Paris or Corsair. Flying time from Paris is eight hours.
*For further info on Guadeloupe, go to www.lesislesdeguadeloupe.com or visit www.franceguide.com .
